Pyjama Party! — or The Importance of a Muslin

Well, I thought I would have a chance to finish one of my sewing challenges on time. I hadn't done anything to the pyjama bottoms, but I thought that they're not that hard, so I will just sew them up today. I had a pattern and everything.

My lovely dinosaur fabric :)

Simplicity 3696 The pattern I was going to use

The first thing I noticed was that I actually don't have the elastic for the waist. Then I thought, I'll just sew them up and buy elastic next week and add that, so problem solved. So, on to making a muslin. For my measurements I was a size M, but looking at the finished garment measurements I decided to go with S as I like my clothes bit more fitted even when it comes to pyjamas. The muslin was quick and easy (even the patch went over well: my sheet wasn't wide enough for both front and back pieces, so I added a bit of fabric to the missing part and it wasn't pretty, but hey, it's a muslin). But then I tried it on. I noticed right away that I could use the whole 1.5 cm seam allowance instead of 1 cm I was using on the muslin, since the pants were quite big enough. BUT: the front of the pants seemed huge while the back seems a bit tight. And I don't think my bottom is that big... I've heard it's one of the problems with big 4 patterns.

So no pants for today. I love my dinosaur fabric that I was going to use and I will get the Tofino pattern and try if that would be any better for me. Although I think I will play with the muslin, if I can figure out how to make them better. And if I can't, well, that's why you make muslins, right?

I'm just a bit annoyed, since I haven't been on schedule for any of the challenges I wanted to do. I was right on track to begin with, but then work happened. And I have this article I need to finish that's about my Master's thesis, that I should really have finished already and that I have to do on my own time. So, I feel a bit guilty even thinking of sewing... But I'm almost done with that, and work is less crazy now, so more sewing :) Although I will be away for most of July... But I have about a week before that: I will get something done, some refashioning at least, and when I'll be back, I have so many plans...

The Great Gatsby Giveaway

I was going through my bookshelf when I saw this book I bought last year when I was sewing my charleston dress. At the moment I'm interested in a book with more depth, although this was better than I thought (I have only looked at the pictures before...)
It's not a sewing book, but it's a quick book on the fashions of 1920s and 1930s. I think it pretty much did what it was supposed to do. It's not an extensive history of fashion and it doesn't go into details. What it does, it gives you a good idea of the fashion trends and what to look for when you want to recreate it. Whether you're buying vintage clothes or making your own to achieve the look. I think it's a great resource for someone who wants to have an period accurate costume or is starting to get into vintage fashion of these decades. It also gives a list of further information, if you're so inclined.

But, as I just ordered a more thorough fashion sourcebook and since there's the Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge and all, I thought I would offer this book as a giveaway. It is a pretty little thing, and I think it gives a good idea of the main trends in fashion especially reproducing the look in mind. It talkes about fabrics and cuts and stuff.

So, if you are interested in getting this book for yourself, leave a comment by the end of Friday 24th May (Central European time). There are no geographical restrictions, but I will send the book by cheapest method, so it might take awhile. I hope the book finds a loving home.

Pinterest inspirational, challenge update, and inventory

Today I stumbled into this blog. I loved the style and I also found Ami's pinterest boards. Now, I've been using pinterest for awhile and I use it for all kinds of stuff, also for inspiration, but I found something in her boards I hadn't thought about. She would comment on which pattern it could be made out of. It hadn't occurred to me, mostly because I haven't been so familiar with a lot of patterns, but I'm starting to be. So when Ami suggested, that this one could be Laurel made from lace, I totally saw it!

Laurel from lace or Agata Swing Dress $420

I wasn't originally very excited about Laurel, but after seeing what people have done with it, I'm starting to see the potential there.

Then there was another pin for a trench coat, which made me think of the Robson pattern.

Robson or Topliner two-tone trenchcoat by Kate Spade $575, $202 on sale

Now, I'm not a black and white person (although I would so have shoes to go with this coat...). And I have a white trench coat, which is a pain because it gets dirty so easily, but I like the idea of the contrasting edges. I might use this at some point.

Yes, still need to wait a bit for my finished challenge garments: I still don't have the lining fabrics! And I got an update on my order that the lining for Réglisse will be late... So, I might not finish in time... Hopefully I get it for next week.

While I've been waiting for my fabrics and things I've done some inventory on my stash and realized I have more fabric, than I thought... and things to refashion and/or repair. Out of my 4 boxes (one contains mostly patterns) I need to get rid of 3. I decided I need to get rid of at least one box this year. And if I don't make anything myself, I can always offer them as giveaways... But there's no point in hoarding it if I'm not making anything. Hopefully there will be an actual sewing update soon...

Some MAJOR shopping

Well, I start with the challenges. I of course needed to find a suitable fabric for both of them. Even though the patterns haven't arrived yet... I thought I would go to Paris on Thursday or Friday to do this, but decided that it was ok to do it at home on Wednesday when everything is closed due to 1st of May. Well yes, I actually found something I liked. Then finding the fringe for the flapper dress was another matter. I still didn't quite find long enough (or wide enough) fringe, but at least it's 4" which in my head translates to about ~10cm. Which is not too bad, but I really wanted something along the lines of 30cm. And I still have the option of doing my own fringe (which I will need to do, if the color is wrong, we'll see).

But so, what did I choose... For my Great Gatsby challenge I found a lovely turquoise satin. I'm very into turquoise at the moment. Especially when it comes to satin. And I finally, after looking for a long time, found some turquoise fringe at fabric.com! I could've taken silver as well, but somehow the fringe seems more likely to come in gold. Well, this might still change, but I will have to see the fabric and fringe together before making any decisions.

Satin for the Great Gatsby dress

Fringe for the Great Gatsby dress

If this dress becomes anything like I imagine, I will totally love it. And with less fringe I just have to make the dress a bit longer (which might not be a bad idea).

The fabric for Réglisse was also fairly easy. I was not really happy with anything, until I saw this:

Fabric for Réglisse

I can't help it, I love chocolate brown. I hope the real color is as good as in the picture. I got both of the fabrics at Hall du Tissu which seem to have a nice selection. Well for this anyway, I'm having a whole lot of trouble with fabric in general, every time I find something I really like, it's completely wrong type of fabric. Well, so far I've always managed to find something I like in the end, so I just need to look around a bit.

Lady Valet by Adjustoform

Well, my shopping spree didn't really stop here... I recently found out that I'm getting a major tax refund (well, the money will come in december) and in addition to a trip to Doha to visit my cousin, I decided I could buy a dress form. Well, I took a bit of a head start with it and ordered one today... I ordered a Lady Valet from Mercerie Durand. I did a bit of research in the net and I actually would've liked Uniquely You dress form (mostly because this video by Shona: she has a scoliosis too and it showed on the form!), but I could only find it at US Amazon and they didn't deliver to Europe. This seems like a good option as well, they had it on sale at Mercerie Durand, and my budget was ~200 €, so this was ok concerning that as well. This one has 12 buttons to fit the form to one's measurements, you can pin on it and it has a hem adjuster. And people who have it seem to like it a lot.

My Sewaholic patterns + the Pavlova

This is totally my guilt trip post, because my shopping doesn't end here either... I bought some patterns... Well, that was about a week ago, but I kind of splurged there. Well, they do ship from Canada, so I decided to buy the ones I wanted with one sitting. So, I got the Renfrew Top everyone seems to love, as well as the Cambie Dress (there are some amazing Cambies around like Scruffy Badger's, I especially like the polka dotted version, Miss Crayola Creepy's Yellow version, Karen's fruity one, and Amanda's Muddy Waters: I just love that color!), and then I need more pants, so Thurlow Trousers were an obvious choice, Alma Blouse is just so cute, Karen convinced me of Hollyburn Skirt, and who wouldn't love the Robson Coat? And then I blame it on Gillian: I also bought the Pavlova by Cake Patterns. It looks kind of vintage-y so it would be perfect for dancing. The wrap shirt would probably flatter my figure and even though Gillian didn't like hers I think it looks good on her! And I also got the two books I've been drooling on for the longest time: Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing and Couture Sewing Techniques.

And then I have some other plans, but at least I didn't buy any more patterns... I'd love to make the Abbey Coat for winter. Can you think of a more perfect coat? Well, maybe Robson ties the race, but this is completely different style, so they are in a different race. And I can't help: I love that blue! Although I think mine would be some other color... like chocolate brown or mustard (70s) yellow... And then there are the Colette patterns. I haven't forgotten the idea to make the whole book, although I think I will leave the Pastille until my fitting skills improve a bit (or I get the dress form!), and then there are some that I'd love to get: Ceylon, which I didn't think much of until I saw Lauren's version, I've always wanted to do Macaron, and Chantilly looks like my cup of tea. Also Beignet, Sencha, Jasmine, Iris, and Ginger look fun. Just when do I have the time for all this...? We'll see. At least now I'm having fun with planning. And the next projects to be completed are the two challenges. And I do have some plans for other Deer and Doe patterns, like Chardon, Belladone, Airelle, and Bleuet... And I think I should prefer French patterns, since I am in France after all ;)

The Great Gatsby Sewing Challenge - May 2013

The ever-so-talented Miss Crayola Creepy is hosting a sewing challenge for May 2013:

As I'm in the need of a flapper dress (I haven't totally given up on fixing this one, but I'm not really looking forward to it: it won't be very flattering in any case), I decided to join. I'm not so excited about the movie, although I do want to see it, but I am excited about this challenge! This will be my first ever sewing challenge... We'll see how it goes. At least I'm very enthusiastic.

I have a problem with 20s style, so it took me awhile to find a pattern. I love the style, but the straight dress just doesn't look that great on me, 50s style is definitely more flattering on my figure. But I have looked at so many historical 20s dresses that I can say, that even though the majority was straight with a low waist that look better on an androgynous figure, there were also more fitted flapper dresses, like these:

Joan Crawford models a flapper dress.

Flapper dress from the 20s (Decades Inc.)

Actress Juliette in Flapper Style Dress Date Photographed: ca. 1920s

So, this was my idea when looking for a pattern. I'm not great at seeing the possibilities of a pattern that has been styled very differently yet (I'm working on it...), but then I found this pattern from Sew-n-Sew:

So, I decided to get it. It wasn't the cheapest one, and I'm sure I could've found something similar with less money, but if I want to finish by the end of May, I need to decide on something. I'm quite slow at sewing and I make a lot of mistakes I need to correct, so I don't want to end up rushing this. And I really want to try to finish on time. But I'm happy with the pattern (at least for now), I just want longer fringe, like in the dress actress Juliette is wearing. This might be a challenge, though. I didn't find fringe I liked when I was doing the first charleston dress, so I hope my luck will change.