La Réglisse - finished!

Well. I'm finally done! This took forever, although I gotta say, it wasn't the actual sewing. I've had so much extra stuff to do, that I just didn't have time to sew. But still, it took me a really long time. I could've not lined it, but then again, I think I will wear it more with lining. Or I think I underlined it. I always get confused with lining and underlining. I know the difference, but in Finnish we just have one word for it and just different methods how to achieve it. So, I talk about lining, but it might be underlining...

Contrasting side pocket

Somehow the waist ended up being a bit high after all. It was exactly at the right place in the muslin, so I don't know how it happened. It looks ok, though, so I'm not going to try to fix it. Also the bust darts are a bit high (again correct in the muslin, so I guess the problem is with the upper part of the bodice), but again, not too obvious. But if I do the pattern again, I will definitely fix this. There are some issued with my topstitching and my lining doesn't look pretty always, but I don't think these show too much when I'm wearing it. I'm so happy how the pockets turned out. You really can't see them, but there they are. And having little pink inside as well makes me happy. All in all, I think this dress is a success. Especially, since this wasn't my favorite from Deer and Doe patterns, but I definitely warmed up to it.

Few words about the photos: I've seen so many blogs with awesome pictures and I really want to get better ones. I think I need to invest on a tripod. But I think these weren't half bad. I tried to use the posing tips Rachel from House of Pinheiro posted couple of weeks ago. And I  think they are working. Now, I suck at posing, I feel very self-conscious when someone's taking a photo, and I really want to improve this. Maybe taking my pictures for the blog will help... Although it's even worse, when you're taking them in your parking lot, where people walk by... But I kind of like the wall there as a background. We'll see. Maybe I try another place. Oh, and one more thing: I had these perfect shoes for these pictures, but my ankle is still swollen, and they didn't fit. So, that's why I'm wearing my tennis shoes...

Fabric: Dotted brown (100 % cotton), dotted pink (100 % cotton), and beige bemberg lining (100 % polyester).
Pattern: Robe Réglisse
Changes to the pattern: Added 1cm to the length of the bodice, so that the waist would be in the right place (it wasn't though, needed even more length). Added pockets and lining.
Year: 2013
Notions: Elastic for the waistband, pink dotted bias
Time: ~24h (this includes everything from tracing the pattern to finishing, a bit of an estimate, since I forgot to check the time a lot...)
Total price: 75,45 €*

*The cost is pretty accurate: I have a table of costs... I love statistics! Although I don't know if this reflects the real costs of my sewing, since there are always the Craftsy classes and patterns that don't get made in the end and books that are for technique and my dress form and pins and needles and stuff... I'm too much of an accountant I guess, and it bothers me that I don't include the fixed costs... anyway, this is my decision: I will include the fabric, pattern and notions for the project. Unless they are over 3 years old (except pattern books I keep for 5), which is when they become sunken costs... and I have some additional rules that might change - or not. Do I just think about this way too much? Maybe I shouldn't even calculate how much it costs, but I kind of like having a record of it...

La Réglisse - update

Well, this is taking longer than I thought. Well, what is taking longer was getting the fabrics. I thought I would have enough time to sew this all together and I would've had, but then I realized I need to line the dress, because my fabric was kind of thin and I would wear it so much more with a lining. But then it took me forever to get the lining fabric because they didn't have what I wanted in storage. And when I finally started cutting and sewing (I could've cut it earlier...) I realized that I don't have enough fabric to make my own bias binding, so I had to order that too... Except then I just realized that since I'm lining the dress I only need the bias for decoration... And then just plain life and work got in the way of my sewing. My parents have been here and I've had some deadlines at work. So, I didn't make to the sew-along deadline.

And in the end I don't want to rush, I rather make something I would wear. So, I waited for the lining. Also, I had some extra fabric from my Pastille Dress, that I have no decided to not finish. The bodice won't fit anyway and I'm just not sewing at all if I think about it. I do think the neckline and sleeves looked quite well, too bad the bodice didn't sit right...

Pastille - bodice, a photo by RankkaApina on Flickr.

I decided to use this fabric as a contrast, so that I got something fun to my otherwise very brown dress. And I decided to add pockets, because I love having pockets. And I found a good tutorial for adding the seam pockets to basically any pattern. But now at least I have all my fabrics. The brown is for the main part of the dress, the pink I'm using for the collar and sleeves, and the beige bemberg is for lining.

La Réglisse - fabrics, a photo by RankkaApina on Flickr.

Now all my pieces (except lining) have been cut. What makes life easier is this board I got while shopping with my parents:

Sewing board, a photo by RankkaApina on Flickr.

I've had a problem with my tile floor: I need carpets, because the floor is too cold, but I can't cut on a carpet. So, I've been using a clear quilting ruler, but it's way too small. This board is 120cm x 60cm. I really wanted a 120cm x 80cm, but there wasn't one ready and I didn't want to queue. Well, that would've been perfect. But this is good enough.

In any case I don't think I have time this week to finish my Réglisse (or the flapper dress for that matter). Weekend will be used for swing dancing, so I won't finish until next week. But I'm convinced that it will look good and it will have pockets (I think more women's clothes should have pockets, if this wasn't clear yet...).

Pinterest inspirational, challenge update, and inventory

Today I stumbled into this blog. I loved the style and I also found Ami's pinterest boards. Now, I've been using pinterest for awhile and I use it for all kinds of stuff, also for inspiration, but I found something in her boards I hadn't thought about. She would comment on which pattern it could be made out of. It hadn't occurred to me, mostly because I haven't been so familiar with a lot of patterns, but I'm starting to be. So when Ami suggested, that this one could be Laurel made from lace, I totally saw it!

Laurel from lace or Agata Swing Dress $420

I wasn't originally very excited about Laurel, but after seeing what people have done with it, I'm starting to see the potential there.

Then there was another pin for a trench coat, which made me think of the Robson pattern.

Robson or Topliner two-tone trenchcoat by Kate Spade $575, $202 on sale

Now, I'm not a black and white person (although I would so have shoes to go with this coat...). And I have a white trench coat, which is a pain because it gets dirty so easily, but I like the idea of the contrasting edges. I might use this at some point.

Yes, still need to wait a bit for my finished challenge garments: I still don't have the lining fabrics! And I got an update on my order that the lining for Réglisse will be late... So, I might not finish in time... Hopefully I get it for next week.

While I've been waiting for my fabrics and things I've done some inventory on my stash and realized I have more fabric, than I thought... and things to refashion and/or repair. Out of my 4 boxes (one contains mostly patterns) I need to get rid of 3. I decided I need to get rid of at least one box this year. And if I don't make anything myself, I can always offer them as giveaways... But there's no point in hoarding it if I'm not making anything. Hopefully there will be an actual sewing update soon...

Réglisse trial run

Woohoo! The muslin for Réglisse is done!!! Well, it was done on Sunday, but I just hadn't taken any pictures of it.

I was too lazy to do anything to the picture... It was already a job to get a picture of me were I didn't look like I was drunk. And sorry for the mirror, the better one (without the butterflies & stuff) is currently occupied behind drying laundry...

It looks like there's not too much to change. It doesn't have the rubberband in the waist yet, so it will get some shape with that and I didn't bother doing the sleeves and collar. Those I think won't be a problem. I thought I would've had to do something about the waist length, since I cut out the size 38, but my waist is more like 40. But there's totally enough fabric and I think I prefer little bit less fabric there anyway. I did add 3/8 to the bodice length, but used the 5/8 seam allowance (I'm trying to get used to inches since I'm using the English instructions, the cm are in the French booklet... luckily I have a measuring tape with both measures in it). It's weird, even though I'm short my bodice still needs lengthening... But the bust looks good and the darts are exactly were they're supposed to be! I think it turned out pretty good, and I think the only problem is my scoliosis, so I will try to fix this when I fit it with my mother next week in Switzerland (sometimes you need to go far for fitting help...).

I decided to take this whole week off from work, because I have things to do at home and no one's at work anyway, since 8th and 9th are holidays in France. I got my flapper dress patter in the mail and I already cut out the muslin and I will sew it tomorrow. And I have one swing dress that I've the muslin (well, muslin sounds too fancy, I just use old sheets, hence the weird looking fabric) cut out like 2 years ago, and I try to sew that tomorrow as well, if I have time (I also need to clean a bit and pack and catch the train...). I will get my dress form tomorrow from the post office, so I should be able to do my own fitting when I get back from holidays :) I don't know how well it adjusts to the crooked spine thing, though, but it's not something people tend to notice (except when I'm tired, then they ask me if my leg is hurting...), so I think I'll be ok, even if the fit isn't perfect on that part.

In any case my challenges look pretty good at this point. I still haven't gotten my fabrics, though, but I expect to have them when I return from Switzerland. I'm getting a bit sick of sheets and would love to have some other kind of fabric...

It can be Christmas every day!

Well, especially if you're me and forget about what you ordered. So, the Couture Vintage by Tonje Thoresen (in French!) was a nice surprise.

In my letterbox today

Photo by rankkaapina • Instagram

And they all look so wonderful! The Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer is a technique book, no patterns there, I've just been drooling for it for a long time. I bought it together with Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing (Check out Gertie's blog also) which actually mentions my old sewing book that I got from my mother (it's from the 80s, but awesome) and you can actually still find it in English (Reader's Digest Complet Guide to Sewing).  The one thing I love about the Finnish version is that the name is "The Great Sewing Book - Sew and Save". Yes, saving has been a big thing in Finnish sewing at least in the 80s. Well, I know my sister also makes a lot of clothes for her girls and saves up a lot.

The best sewing book ever, and better yet: in Finnish!

The Couture Vintage book looks amazing! It's exactly what I want: not sewing technique, just the patterns and the instructions. With craft books I really like when they keep these things separate. I mean I have the Colette Patterns book and Gertie's book which both have technique and patterns, but I have good technique books, so I'd rather just have the patterns and specific pattern information on those books. Well, of course, they are more beginner friendly. But back to my French book, you can see a review and the pictures of all the clothes here (in French, but you can always look at the pictures if you don't know French). I would like to make at least these:

I mean how perfect are these!? Well, it does help, that the model is awfully pretty, but that's the beauty about sewing: you can actually make these fit you, and if they fit, they'll look great.

And something about this book and also the Réglisse pattern that I got today (I'll be off to make a muslin after I write this): the patterns are on a thick paper, so they will be easier to preserve! I think this might be a European thing (I might be wrong), because before Colette patterns I had never seen the thin pattern paper. Of course I will transfer these to such paper, but the originals will be intact! The book uses the same technique as many pattern magazines: you have a bunch of patterns on top of each other to save space. This just makes me so happy! And the Deer and Doe patterns have the instruction booklet both in French and in English (so there's really no excuse not to order these patterns). But if you like vintage style, I really recommend the Couture Vintage book. It's only in French (I think, I didn't really search for it), but I think the pictures are pretty clear and you can always look up techniques on a book in your language. Plus you might learn a bit of French :) And the clothes just look SO pretty!

Some MAJOR shopping

Well, I start with the challenges. I of course needed to find a suitable fabric for both of them. Even though the patterns haven't arrived yet... I thought I would go to Paris on Thursday or Friday to do this, but decided that it was ok to do it at home on Wednesday when everything is closed due to 1st of May. Well yes, I actually found something I liked. Then finding the fringe for the flapper dress was another matter. I still didn't quite find long enough (or wide enough) fringe, but at least it's 4" which in my head translates to about ~10cm. Which is not too bad, but I really wanted something along the lines of 30cm. And I still have the option of doing my own fringe (which I will need to do, if the color is wrong, we'll see).

But so, what did I choose... For my Great Gatsby challenge I found a lovely turquoise satin. I'm very into turquoise at the moment. Especially when it comes to satin. And I finally, after looking for a long time, found some turquoise fringe at fabric.com! I could've taken silver as well, but somehow the fringe seems more likely to come in gold. Well, this might still change, but I will have to see the fabric and fringe together before making any decisions.

Satin for the Great Gatsby dress

Fringe for the Great Gatsby dress

If this dress becomes anything like I imagine, I will totally love it. And with less fringe I just have to make the dress a bit longer (which might not be a bad idea).

The fabric for Réglisse was also fairly easy. I was not really happy with anything, until I saw this:

Fabric for Réglisse

I can't help it, I love chocolate brown. I hope the real color is as good as in the picture. I got both of the fabrics at Hall du Tissu which seem to have a nice selection. Well for this anyway, I'm having a whole lot of trouble with fabric in general, every time I find something I really like, it's completely wrong type of fabric. Well, so far I've always managed to find something I like in the end, so I just need to look around a bit.

Lady Valet by Adjustoform

Well, my shopping spree didn't really stop here... I recently found out that I'm getting a major tax refund (well, the money will come in december) and in addition to a trip to Doha to visit my cousin, I decided I could buy a dress form. Well, I took a bit of a head start with it and ordered one today... I ordered a Lady Valet from Mercerie Durand. I did a bit of research in the net and I actually would've liked Uniquely You dress form (mostly because this video by Shona: she has a scoliosis too and it showed on the form!), but I could only find it at US Amazon and they didn't deliver to Europe. This seems like a good option as well, they had it on sale at Mercerie Durand, and my budget was ~200 €, so this was ok concerning that as well. This one has 12 buttons to fit the form to one's measurements, you can pin on it and it has a hem adjuster. And people who have it seem to like it a lot.

My Sewaholic patterns + the Pavlova

This is totally my guilt trip post, because my shopping doesn't end here either... I bought some patterns... Well, that was about a week ago, but I kind of splurged there. Well, they do ship from Canada, so I decided to buy the ones I wanted with one sitting. So, I got the Renfrew Top everyone seems to love, as well as the Cambie Dress (there are some amazing Cambies around like Scruffy Badger's, I especially like the polka dotted version, Miss Crayola Creepy's Yellow version, Karen's fruity one, and Amanda's Muddy Waters: I just love that color!), and then I need more pants, so Thurlow Trousers were an obvious choice, Alma Blouse is just so cute, Karen convinced me of Hollyburn Skirt, and who wouldn't love the Robson Coat? And then I blame it on Gillian: I also bought the Pavlova by Cake Patterns. It looks kind of vintage-y so it would be perfect for dancing. The wrap shirt would probably flatter my figure and even though Gillian didn't like hers I think it looks good on her! And I also got the two books I've been drooling on for the longest time: Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing and Couture Sewing Techniques.

And then I have some other plans, but at least I didn't buy any more patterns... I'd love to make the Abbey Coat for winter. Can you think of a more perfect coat? Well, maybe Robson ties the race, but this is completely different style, so they are in a different race. And I can't help: I love that blue! Although I think mine would be some other color... like chocolate brown or mustard (70s) yellow... And then there are the Colette patterns. I haven't forgotten the idea to make the whole book, although I think I will leave the Pastille until my fitting skills improve a bit (or I get the dress form!), and then there are some that I'd love to get: Ceylon, which I didn't think much of until I saw Lauren's version, I've always wanted to do Macaron, and Chantilly looks like my cup of tea. Also Beignet, Sencha, Jasmine, Iris, and Ginger look fun. Just when do I have the time for all this...? We'll see. At least now I'm having fun with planning. And the next projects to be completed are the two challenges. And I do have some plans for other Deer and Doe patterns, like Chardon, Belladone, Airelle, and Bleuet... And I think I should prefer French patterns, since I am in France after all ;)

Réglisse Sew-Along

When it rains it pours... But I need to take part in sew-along for May. I'm not sure if I'm going to finish both this and the Great Gatsby challenge, but then again two dresses in a month is not a huge commitment. And I think both of the patterns are pretty straightforward. At least I hope so. I've been trying to read sewing blogs in French, but it was hard for me at first to find any. Then I found Thread & Needles. It's like My Sewing Circle, but in French.

In France (in French blogs at least) the patterns of Deer & Doe seem very popular (not that surprising being French and all). When I first saw them, I didn't see the appeal. Now I don't understand how I didn't see how awesome they are! I mean I've must've been blind... But I think I first started to understand how awesome they are when I saw Paunnet's version of Bleuet. And also Sandra's Chardon just blew me away.

So, when I was looking at the patterns on the website, I noticed the blog and then I noticed the sew-along. And even though Réglisse wasn't my favorite of the patterns, I think it will be fairly easy as my problems lie in fitting and it's quite loosely fitted. And also it has the retro feel, so as long as I pick a right fabric I can totally use it for dancing. Well, and if the "winter" is any indication (winter in quotes because I think we had 6 months of fall), the summer will be long...

So I went ahead and ordered the pattern, and now I just need a fabric. I think I'll go fabric shopping on Friday. The sew-along starts today, so if you want to join, you still can! In that case, you can find the schedule here. It is only in French, but what a perfect time to practice :)

What bothers me a bit is the elastic waist. I'm not usually a huge fan of those, but it probably won't be as bad as I think or maybe I can figure out some kind of alteration for that. A cute bow belt maybe...