Orion Bar dress

The Stitchy Details:

• Challenge Theme: Monthly Stitch - June 2014
• Pattern used: Sewaholic Cambie
• Fabric: Black and Orion Bar fabric ordered from Spoonflower + salmon colored bemberg lining
• Notions: zipper
• Did you make any pattern alterations or design changes? I used a size 8 but the shoulders and darts from size 6. Also I took out ~10 cm of the length. And straightened the neckline with Tasia's instructions.
• Total price: ~106 € (Spoonflower fabric is fairly expensive, especially with postage to Europe...)
• Time to complete: ~22h

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Well, I'm a bit late, since it's July, but I actually finished this in June (30th, to be exact!), but I didn't have time to take photos or blog it as I had a presentation on July 1st. And I actually was finishing the dress for the presentation. The Cambie has been on my list of to-sew for a long time now. There are really awesome ones in the internet and I've been very inspired by many (few examples: Les Mademoiselles: love the piping! Scruffy Badger: the edges on the blue one, so cute! Young Seamstress: just plain lovely, Sewing in the Rain: so classy and I just love the color...)

Actually it was the blogpost of Sewing in the Rain, that gave me good advice when choosing the size. She said that she should have chosen the size according to her full bust instead of the actual bust. I did that now, I actually would be pretty much size 8 (except way shorter) according to the sizing chart. But my problem is that I have super narrow shoulders (as in my upper body is kind of small, and then there are the boobs, if that makes sense...).  So I chose size 6 for the neckline and shoulders and this was the best choice ever! The shoulders fit perfectly and then I just draw to the waist for size 8. I didn't do an FBA (I actually have never done this and I was glad I didn't have to learn it now, as my schedule was kind of tight), I just added a bit to the side seams, but I didn't need much to fit. But there are some problems with the fit. Actually I think I should've done the FBA: there's some wrinkling under the bust, but the front doesn't look too bad. The back, however, is too big as you can see from the back and side photos. So I think the added length did a lot for the bust, but as I added it to the back as well... not so good. So, fitting will require some work next time. Because there will be a next time for this dress :) Maybe with a fuller skirt... Or maybe I'll make this same one, but better.


I had a bit of trouble attaching the lining. There is a pretty good tutorial on the Sewaholic blog, but still had some problems... I wasn't sure when to sew the lining under the zipper, so in the end I did it before attaching the lining. Now then, I was reading the comments on the post and someone was asking about trimming the seam allowance from the center back of the lining and it was advised to trim it off completely. I didn't trim it off completely, but I still run into problems, and actually with the method Tasia is using, you really don't need to trim the seam allowance at all for the lining before attaching it.

Finished seams :)

I got a bit carried away with this dress as this was the first time I used my pinking shears and I loved it as a way to finish the seams. Especially since most of the seams are not exposed anyway, but under the lining, they don't need a whole lot of finishing, but I feel uncomfortable of leaving them totally unfinished. I'm in love! I also used the glue pen to attach the zipper for sewing and it worked pretty well. Lot less hassle than pins. I might really adopt this method in the future as well (this was Stuart Hillard's advice in the Birmingham craft fair).

All in all I think the result was successful. I love the salmon colored lining (not looking like the right color, I'm still photography-challenged), and the dress was a big hit at our Journée des Thésards (PhD student day), where we were supposed to dress up as our research subjects... Yes, the picture in the fabric is of the Hubble image of the Orion Bar (photo credit: NASA, C.R. O'Dell and S.K.Wong (Rice University)), which is what I study at the moment :)

My plan for the rest of the year

So, I've been doing everything else but sewing, and even though I don't want to stress about it, I really want to get better at it. So, I decided to make a plan for this year. Nothing too ambitious, because then when I can't keep up, I end up giving up altogether. So, my goal is to make at least 6 garments this year. I still have like 9 months to go, so I think this is reasonable even if I get some slumps sometimes.

My planned pieces are:

1) Bathrobe
This I've actually started: I have traced most of the pattern pieces. What's great about this project is, that I won't have fitting issues as it doesn't really have to fit. I mean I have to fit inside it, but when I lived at home I used my dad's old bathrobe a lot because it was so nice and soft. So, it really can't be too big... I found a really nice fabric from SelfTissus, unfortunately they only have solid colors now, but here's a picture that used to be on the site. As a pattern I'm using Jalie 2567.

Bathrobe fabric

Jalie 2567

2) Vintage dress
This I've also started, but I got nervous about the fitting part... So, this is actually what I planned for my last year's Monthly Stitch challenge for September. But then things happened and I just didn't have time to finish. I have traced the pattern and even cut and marked the muslin. So, I need to start the fitting process. I have an idea how to do this, Craftsy is really helping me in understanding how it's done. It's so much different to actually see how the fitting is done, than trying to figure it out from a book.

I'm still planning on the same fabric as originally, and I'm doing the short sleeve version. If the final dress fits and otherwise succeeds, I will do a long sleeved version from a petrol blue wool I bought from sale last year (3m/15€, pure wool!).

3) Renfrew
I've been planning to make a renfrew top for a long time. I'm a bit nervous about sewing with knits but I just have to start somewhere. I'm thinking of starting with a short sleeved version in this as well. I have a perfect amanita fabric (I just learned what that red mushroom is in English), although it is more turquoise than in the picture here. If I like how it turns out, then I will make another version (maybe a long sleeved one) from this cutest monkey fabric ever! Second one should be quite easy to make if the first one is good, right?

Monkey fabric for renfrew no 2

Amanita fabric for renfrew no 1

4) Cambie
This is something I need to finish before it's time to defend my thesis. Well, there's still about 1,5 years until that time, but at the rate I'm going, it will com up fast. Well, I might want to use the cambie before that, but I think I can still wear it for my defense. And why is this a perfect dress for that? It's that because of the fabric, which I "designed" and ordered from Spoonflower. So the quote marks are there, because I just basically took this super pretty Hubble image of the Orion bar, and then just chose how it's featured in the fabric. I also ordered some basic black (which is not quite black as the printed fabric will never be quite that, but it will match the picture fabric black) and I will use that for the bodice and then the Orion bar will be on the skirt part. And I chose this particular picture, because this is the area I'm currently researching. I'm kind of excited about this! Yes I know, I'm a geek.

Credit: NASA, C.R. O'Dell and S.K. Wong (Rice University)

5) Swing dress
This is something I actually started way back and got stuck with the fitting... There seems to be a pattern here... (pun not intended). So I just had started swing dancing and lost my heart and then I got the pattern. This was also the time I got interested in sewing again and there was Casey's sew-a-long from where I found the pattern. I traced the patterns cut the muslin and it's been at that stage for couple of years now... I really like the look of it, I have a pretty brown fabric with some print fabric for contrast and I just want to get it done!

6) Tofino pants
Well, it really depends how long can I make my tofino pants, they might be more like shorts: I only have 1 yrd of the fabric. It was all that was left, but hey, it's dinosaurs, so I really had to get it anyway. And I'll make shorts if it's not long enough for pants... If it was normal width I probably could squeeze pants out of it, but the width is just 106 cm. But don't you think it's cute? I can't wait to wear my pyjama bottoms!

Dinosaur fabric for pyjama pants

Well, the actual projects might change, but this is what I'm planning now. And anyway the goal is to finish at least 6 garments, I'm not being too strict about these being the actual 6. In general I'd like to have more blouses, and now I realized there's not a single blouse on my plan... So, that might change. And I can of course make more than 6 if I can. I'm just super slow with my sewing, and I like to try not to cut corners, because then the clothes are more wearable.

I also have some knitting projects and next weekend I'm doing something quite exciting! I will post about it next week, so you will have to live in suspense until then. Oh, and what did I notice on the weekend? The second series of the Sewing Bee is on! And I can watch it on tv as I'm in UK for awhile. How cool is that!

Monthly Stich: September - Vintage Patterns

So, september is here and so is the next Monthly Stitch challenge. This is right up my alley: vintage patterns. I haven' yet sewn one, so I'm quite excited. And as always I'm not taking the easy way out, as my pattern is unprinted one... But I think I can work it out. Let's hope so anyway :)

So, for my pattern, I've chosen one from my stash (yes, I'm starting to have a stash. It's from the 40s (hence, the non-printed situation), Simplicity 3194. I'm still going to trace this pattern, because I want to preserve the original. We'll see how it goes. I also will take a bit more time and measure everything from the pattern to do adjustments to the pattern before making the muslin. Because I really want this dress to fit nicely. That is I'm using my Craftsy course (Fast-Track Fitting by Joi Mahon) technique :) I'm not good with muslins if there are a lot of alterations, and this way I'm hoping that I have only few adjustments to the muslin. I'm thinking of making the short sleeve version, since I think that would be better for dancing. Although I think I'm skipping the rick rack braid this time. I might add some tatted lace, if I have time and energy to tat enough of it.

I'm quite excited about this. I have a fabric, I decided to use my flower fabric, which I bought from Paris about a year ago when I was here for the interview (so not the yellow one, I'm just too lazy to take a new picture of the fabric... But I still need a belt buckle and some contrast fabric: I'm thinking red. Or I might go for solid blue like the background color, or possibly white. Depends on what I find. Finding the right color to go with fabric you already have is not always easy-peasy. All the other notions I should have already. I found a huge amount of snap fasteners, since I tend to buy them and not remember I actually have some at home. Well, at least I'm not in danger of running out...

I'm kind of torn about this project. I'm excited and really nervous at the same time. But I guess I never learn if I don't try...

The Cape of Misfortunes

The Stitchy Details: 

• Challenge Theme: The Cape Challenge - August 2013
• Pattern used: Milano Cape by Papercut Patterns
  Contemporary, sizing: XXS-L (my size: S)
  Description by Papercut Patterns: Double breasted cape with six buttons, a flat Peter Pan collar, side single welt pockets and full facings.
• Fabric: Wool, bought locally
• Notions: 6 buttons
• Did you make any pattern alterations or design changes?
  No changes, except the use of different fabric for the pockets (but this isn't really a change). Unless you of course count the fact that I sew one of the welts upside down.
• First worn/Wear again?
  First worn for the pictures, this is definitely for the fall/winter. But when the cold weather comes, this will be part of my wardrobe.
• Total price: ~36 € + pattern ~22 € = Total ~58 € (The buttons & thread is an estimation: here in France I tend to only get the bank card receipt with the total amount, so no idea what they actually cost. I estimated the cost based on internet stores).
• Time to complete: 14h 30 min

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Well, the first problem came with the welt pockets: I had totally decided to use the furniture cotton for the pockets. But when I started cutting, I noticed that the knit actually matches the color a lot better than the furniture cotton. So I decided to use the knit after all, since that was the exact right color. But I thought the pockets wouldn't be sturdy enough with the knit, after all, this is outdoor wear for winter. So, what I did was I used the knit for the welt part that shows outside and the furniture cotton for the actual pocket.

The second problem came with cutting: I noticed that I didn't have enough of fusible interfacing. I bought according to the pattern (and even a bit more, since it said 1.3m and I got 1.5), but what I didn't notice was that my fabric wasn't 140 cm wide, but 90 cm... So, some creative solutions: since this wasn't the type you need to iron on, but sew, I decided that it doesn't matter which one is the right side, since they won't show anyway. So, I cut the hem interfacing both the same way. And for the undercollar, there will be a seam in the middle. Since I totally had enough fabric, just not enough for continuous pieces.

And then: the thing I was dreading for: matching the fabric. I was going to use Tasia's method in matching plaids, but my problem (third and I haven't even cut the fabric yet) was, that I couldn't fold the fabric in half as I normally do, since the cape pieces were too big, and I couldn't do it the way it was done in the instructions (you fold the fabric the other way, so that selvedges were on the sides of the fold), because my plaids weren't symmetrical. At this point, I started to wonder if I have enough fabric to match the seams and I decided to try to match the main pieces and then match the collar and facings if possible. Well, in the end, matching wasn't that bad. I matched everything except the hem facings. But I my pieces were a bit stretched out in the process...

But: the plaid matching seemed to work pretty well, as you can see from the picture below :) Well not for the facings, but I was getting tired by then and they don't really matter as they don't show. Also, the only piece that was stretched out was one of the front pieces, so I sewed the buttons on that one, so that it was left under the other piece. And you can barely notice it.

The back seam: it's not pressed and still you can hardly see where the seam is!

The cutting actually took like 6 and a half hours... Don't do a plaid cape... But as everyone who has ever known me, might already know: I never take the easy way out. At some point I realized that the fusing actually was one with glue, just not a whole lot of it... But this really didn't become a problem. Although I might've used the iron a bit longer and not having to sew it to all the pieces.

And then, the first actual sewing thing. The thing I was dreading: the welt pockets. After the youtube tutorial I was quite confident about the sewing of it all, but I really hadn't internalized which way you place the welt, so that it will come out the right way in the end. I even searched the internet before sewing it! But the one that I found where they actually used a garment and not just pieces of fabric for show, was one where they did a bit different kind of welt. So, my first ever welt, even though it wasn't half bad, was upside down... The pocket is sewn the right way, so it just has the welt on the upper part, which is a bit funny, but I think these pockets are mostly decorative anyway, and the other one I did the right way. And I think I really learned it now...

My first ever welt!

Here you can see the problem: on the left the correct welt and on the right not...

I also realized I'm gonna run out of thread, so I had to use red that wasn't really matching the fabric with the facings, but it's inside and doesn't show. And once I had pinned all the facings, I realized my pins were the wrong way around, so I get sticking myself with them the whole time I was attaching the facings...

So, most of the things that could go wrong with this cape - did go wrong.

But I also learned a lot. Besides the welt pockets and plaid matching, I also needed to relearn how to sew buttonholes. The actual technique wasn't so much of a problem as much as how to get my machine to do what I want... But I finally got it and they turned out fine. I even had enough thread :)  Well, barely, and I had to use another not quite the same color for the bobbin for the buttonholes, but it doesn't show!

And I learned more about my machine: how to sew the buttonholes, obviously, how to actually read the quick reference chart, and that the pressure of the pressure foot is something you should pay attention to when sewing fabrics that stretch easily out of shape. I used pressure 0 and it was perfect for this fabric. Comparing to what I learned in school, I'm really learning a lot about my machine and how to use it better and it's starting show in the things I do. It's somehow easier to make better looking things when you know how to use the tools you have.

So, finally here are some pictures of the finished cape:

More plaid matching, and here the pockets
look like they are as they should...

I really like the way it flows when you turn :) The fabric is a bit uncomfortable for wear against the bare skin, but that was just for now, when it's too hot for this anyway. But if I ever make another one from a similar fabric (or any kind of cape/jacket), I will definitely line it. I was a bit worried first that I'll look like I was swallowed by a tent, but in the end, I don't think it looks too bad.

I think this is definitely a wearable cape for the winter in Paris! Which is a lot less damp/rainy than the Finnish one and thus more suitable to a wool cape.  And one more thing: This is like the first challenge that I managed to finish on time! Yey for me!

End with a powershot (although it could be more dynamic, but hey, the cape looks good when walking!)

Edit: Check out also my Monthly Stich post!

Sneak Peak: The Cape

Well, I'm trying to find the time to do this. I think this weekend... I have the pattern, I have the fabric, and I have the notions. I'm still making the Milano Cape by Papercut Patterns.

Two weeks ago I did some shopping: Besides the cape fabric, I also got the fabric for the waistband of my circle skirt that should be coming up soon (#sewingdares: circle skirt for dancing) as well as something that would look good as Alma (another #sewingdare: sew a Sewaholic pattern). And finally I got my order from Tissus.net, which means I have elastic for my bombshell swimsuit. That has been long coming, I'll try to make it for the Thread & Needles August vintage challenge (theme: the beach). Some amazing inspiration from other bloggers: View A, the one I'm doing as well: Anna of paunnet, Lauren of Lladybird,  Tasia of Sewaholic, Leila of Three Dresses Project, Katie of Kadiddlehopper, Ginger* of Gingermakes (*not her real name), and Dixie of Dixie DIY, View B/C: Cynthia of Dapperduds (I'm really loving this bikini version), Novita of Verypurpleperson, and Anna of paunnet.

So, hopefully bunch of sewing coming up. The next thing is the cape, though. I saw some amazing wool, but that was 32 €/m, and the pattern requires 3.6m, so I thought: no. But, I found something else on sale. This is still lovely, a bit scratchier than the expensive fabric, but not too bad and this will be for winter so I won't be wearing it on bare skin.

Fabric for the cape + the notions

Don't you think it's lovely? The read is more dark red in real life, it looks a bit orange-y here. I took 4m, so hopefully I can match the stripes, but if I can't, I can't. I will try, though. I don't know if I got enough fabric for matching, as it's a bit new thing for me. But I really love the buttons. I went to a notions shop and just asked what I needed and I showed the fabric and the lady found these. When I first saw them, I didn't think much of them, but when she put them on the fabric, they were awesome.

So, I traced and cut the pattern on yesterday, and I was actually planning to cut the fabric as well. But it was kind of late when I got the pattern done, and I was a bit worried about matching, so I want to do that with a fresh brain... So, I will be cutting today :) I'm also a bit worried about the welt pockets, but you live and learn, right? At any rate, you live.

I did find few tutorials, that I think will be helpful (the written instructions with drawn pictures probably would've worked, but seeing someone do it, helps:



Lladybird's tutorial on welt pockets

I decided to make the pockets from a contrast fabric. Well, I had two that matched the color of my buttons. The problem was: other one is a knit and the other one is cotton, but sort of heavy kind, the kind you would use on furniture or bags or such. After consulting the sewcialists, mainly Angela, I decided to use the cotton. Mainly I think it's nice that outerwear has durable pockets and the heaviness is close to the wool I'm using for the cape. I guess the knit would've worked too. Well, we'll see how well it works.

If you haven't signed up yet for the pattern/book giveaway, do so now!

Monthly Stich: August - The Cape

I'm still thinking I can take on challenges... So I signed up for The Monthly Stich. I think I can do this, though. First, there's one challenge per month, and I don't have to do them all, if I don't have time. Second, the first challenge is for August (the cape challenge), but the next one for September is already announced (vintage pattern). For me the biggest problem with the challenges over the summer were that when I finally got all the supplies, the month had almost gone. Now, I can make sure I have everything before the month begins and I can actually use the challenge month for sewing. Well, I still have lots of other plans, so we'll see what happens, but at least I've been planning on making a vintage pattern anyway. And I think I have the perfect fabric too. But I got kind of excited about the cape too. Especially since the winters in France don't seem to be that cold, so I could actually wear it at least for the next two winters.

Milano Cape by Papercut Patterns

I already ordered a pattern, since I pretty much fell in love with the Milano Cape by Papercut Patterns. They also have a lovely cape/jacket pattern: The Watson Jacket, but since it seems to require more skills, I thought I'd try the easier one first. So I guess I'll be fabric shopping on Saturday... I'm thinking of a wool fabric, which would be nice and warm. And maybe a bright color or chocolate brown or leafy green. Pretty much something from my color palette.

I took my sister fabric shopping last weekend when she was here with her husband and I realized how much choice I have here and how much nicer it's actually to go to a shop where you can feel the fabric and see the colors as they really are, although I haven't really been disappointed when buying from the internet. I also got some nice fabrics on my holiday in Sweden and in Finland, so after this Saturday I think it will be more sewing and less buying. Although, as I've been reading about people stash busting and buying more fabric than they need and I can totally see the problem, but I also think you need a bit of a stash. Especially when you don't live right next to a fabric store. When you have a stash, it means that you can actually start sewing right away, when you find the time and inspiration. This has been a bit of a problem for me. I also don't really have a notions stash, so if the pattern requires a zipper or something, I need to go buy that. What I'm aiming for is, that after Saturday I have everything I need for all my planned stuff. Which is a lot. So, then I can just sew, sew, sew :)

Anyway, this month, there will hopefully be more posts about actual finished garments and I will finally finish some of the challenges I started, but kind of haven't gotten past the material phase.